Magpie Goes To Esxence: Part 1

Magpie sniffed a lot of perfumes in 3 days. Magpie didn't want to smell any perfume for 2 days after Esxence. | Illustration by The Perfume Magpie

Magpie sniffed a lot of perfumes in 3 days. Magpie didn’t want to smell any perfume for 2 days after Esxence. | Illustration by The Perfume Magpie

 

The first smell of Milan was manure. Sorry for the strange opening but that was the fact. On the Thursday evening, the last day of March, I was greeted by the familiar smell of countryside when I walked out of the airplane at Linate airport in Milan. It was a little ironic since the reason I travelled to Milan was to attend the 8th Esxence to smell and experience (hopefully) fantastic perfumes from all around the world. But, to be honest, I found some kind of weird comfort in this primordial smell.

If you are reading this blog, chances are you already know what Esxence is but for the sake of people who are not quite sure what it is – like I was a few years ago – here’s a little excerpt from the organiser:

Esxence – The Scent of Excellence, is an international appointment that cannot be missed by any brand name which operates, with passion and conviction, in promoting the marvellous art of olfactory language. It rises ever higher in determining the fundamental style choices of every person who likes to be noticed, relying upon the search for personal taste, who seeks expression by choosing between superb creations which are not made to please everyone, but to be admired in their intrinsic beauty by those who wish do so.

Esxence – The Scent of Excellence provides surroundings for examples of excellence from throughout the world, displayed together without competitive tensions, presented for those who are interested in listening, in savouring aromas, in understanding and enjoying stories, anecdotes and creative decisions, in courageous innovations and distributive consistency, so that each producer’s priceless olfactory taste can be best selected and chosen from among the finest creative excellence.

So, basically, it is an artistic perfumery event where you can talk to actual perfumers or directors in person and smell around hundreds of perfumes as you wish. At least that’s the case for perfume enthusiasts like me. For perfumers and perfume brands, it’s a little different story and more serious thing for their business, of course.

Because of my late arrival on Thursday, I missed the opening day of Esxence, but I had enough time to meet Val the Cookie Queen from Australian Perfume Junkies and the celebrated perfumer Vero Kern from .vero.profumo. Greeted them with big hugs but I bet I smelled disgraceful from travelling. And then I had a pasta dinner with Lucas from the Chemist in the Bottle, catching up with all sorts of things like old friends. Pretty good start, I’d say.

Esxence

The next day, Esxence was heaving and totally mesmerising. I received my press pass at the entrance and went inside with Val, Vero, and Dr. Fox. It really was a sensible choice; otherwise I wouldn’t have known where to start! I was tottering behind them through the columns of people already gathering in front of each stand.

Before flying to Milan, I prepared a list of perfumes I wanted to try and perfume brands I wanted to visit in 4 categories;
the first priority – desperately want to smell and can’t go home without a sniff,
the second priority – after sweeping through the 1st priorities, let’s take a look,
the third priority – if there is time left, go around in a leisurely manner,
and the rest.
Also my strategy was to go easy on Day 1 and get my footing first – important for the survival – and then attack most of the brands on Day 2 & 3 and conquer Esxence.

I wouldn’t go on talking about every single thing I did or smelled. It’ll be a torture for you if you decide to read through. For this Part 1 of my Esxence report, I’ll just give you the overview of Esxence and some highlights of first 2 days. In the next post, I’ll cover Day 3.

Overview

Oud la la — Oud this, oud that. There were so many oud perfumes. I was so traumatised by oud while I was living in the Middle East, now when I see oud in the name of the brand or perfume or in notes, I flinch. I appreciate miniscule amount of oud in some perfumes but if it’s the main thing, that’s a no-go zone. Hence I walked pass most of the oud brands.

Déjà vu — Even though the perfume itself wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t outstanding or memorable. I guess it is difficult to come up with completely unique and good perfumes in this oversaturated perfume market.  I don’t blame them.

Bling Bling — There were quite a few flashy and gaudy bottles scattered around at Esxence. I was kind of frightened to touch them, so I didn’t venture into those stands to smell what was inside. They might have been great, who knows.

Showtime — Some really fancy displays caught my eyes while I was walking around. Usually these stands were surrounded by big crowds and, to give them credit, some of them looked pretty impressive. The only problem was that I didn’t have the patience to queue up to try their perfumes. I missed quite a few.

My way — Generally speaking, these were well established brands and already have their own styles and philosophies. They had more down to earth approach and, although they were happy to answer the questions and assist you, they didn’t seem to pay heed to their surroundings. Personally I liked them.

Charming Charmer — Energetic and full of life perfumers and assistants. Loved them. OK, it was supposed to be all about perfumes but I thoroughly enjoyed talking to them and listening to their stories. Even though some of their perfumes were not exactly my cup of tea, it was still delightful experience. Their enthusiasm was infectious.

Day 1 Highlights

There were two important things lined up for Day 1. One was to hang out with Val, Vero, and Dr. Fox and to visit Campomarzio 70, which I’m going to cover in another post but I still have to mention a few things here. Val was a real blast! Her oozing energy was like none other and, talking about energy, I was astonished by Vero. Have you seen her walking down the streets? In a few seconds, she can be out of your sight. Swift like a summer breeze.  Another amazing thing was the sense of direction Dr. Fox possesses. I have a pretty good sense too but mine is more like of a dozy pigeon. In the case of Dr. Fox, I have a strong suspicion that she has own GPS installed inside her. I had a brilliant time walking around with them.

Another big thing for the day was to meet Mary Gooding and Puredistance team. It was so great to see them finally in person! They were radiant and beautiful, perfect personifications of their perfume line. We had a good chat and talked a little bit more about their new perfume Sheiduna. Sheiduna will be released later this year and its representing colours are red and gold. But I can’t tell you anything more. I’m sworn to secrecy. 😉

I also had a chat with Pauline Rochas from Coolife and it was fascinating to hear inspirational stories behind the creation of this perfume line. Each perfume represents individual chakra – the energy centre. So far 4 of their perfumes have been released, including the latest Le Quatrieme Parfum; it was smoky grounding scent and was really good.

At Maria Candida Gentile’s stand, I was introduced to her new Rrose Selavy. It was a rich and deep rose perfume containing different varieties of roses. Although I’m not a rose perfume person, I enjoyed it a lot. Rose lovers, check this one out.

Olivier Durbano was such a lovely guy and fun person to talk to. I loved his brilliant display of perfumes! He didn’t have new releases at Esxence but sounded like something would join his line later this year.

I visited Jardin D’Ecrivains toward the end of the day. I wanted to try some I hadn’t had a chance to sniff before. I don’t usually wear perfumes when I go to bed but I though La Dame aux Camelias – Night Cologne would be a great one if I did.

Day 2 Highlights

Day 2 had started with the lecture “New Fragrances: A ten-years Review, 2006 to 2015” by Michael Edwards. Then I embarked on my sniffing sessions with Lucas. At the Nishane stand, we split up for a while. Nishane was on my first priority list and I really wanted to try their 2 new perfumes: Fan Your Flames and Hundred Silent Ways. Don’t you love the names? I do. They are well composed and I liked both of them. Mert Güzel & Murat Katran were so approachable and with genuine smiles; fantastic guys. Since I mentioned “fantastic”, I need to tell you about Mark Buxton. He has been my puppy crush of the perfume world. My hawk (OK, magpie) vision spotted there was nobody at his stand, so I swiftly manoeuvred through the crowd and perched clutched onto his stand. How could I miss this opportunity? I tried his new A Day In My Life. It was so Mark Buxton. He revealed that this would be the last of his current line and he would move onto next projects. It was a delight to listen to him talking about background stories of his creations and his creative approaches. It really was GREAT!

Another one on my priority list was Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger. Virginie Roux warmly showed me around their collection and I tried quite a few including 2 new perfumes Liberté Bohème & Poudre de liberté. Violette Sacrée was another perfume that I wanted to try for a while, and finally I got the chance. I’m glad I did. This will certainly join one of my favourite violet perfumes.

Dusita is a sparkling new brand. I stopped at their stand to sniff 3 new releases – Issara, Melodie de l’Amour, and Oudh Infini – and chatted with the perfumer Pissara Umavijani for a quite long time while munching on Ferrero Rocher. All of her perfumes were inspired by her father’s poetry. On the strip, I thought my favourite was Melodie de l’Amour but I rather liked Issara when I tested on my skin. I’m not a big fan of oud perfumes but even I could tell that Oudh Infini was a good creation. I have a high hope for this line and I’ll definitely be following her progress.

I also managed to catch Tanja Bochnig from April Aromatics in a slight quiet moment. Believe me, other times her stand was always surrounded by a huge crowd and it was so hard to get close to. After sniffing Purple Reign – soothing violet and iris scent with lavender twist – and other quality creations by Tanja, we met up with Lucas and had a little quiet lunch break on a park bench together. We all needed that brief tranquil moment away from people and perfumes!

Gabriella Chieffo’s artistic display for her new release Maisia is worth a mention. It plays on light and shadow and seemingly random letters on the wall cast a shadow in the shape of a woman. The perfume itself tells a story of a woman, accused of being a witch and burnt at the stake. The slightly smoky ash note does give an imagery of her final fate. The word artistic also goes to Nettuno by Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima. The bottle was adorned with a glass and mirror mosaic plate, each handcrafted by an artist, and looked stunning. It was quite fitting for this multi-faceted perfume; clear, deep, and somewhat animalic. Artistic in more classic way was The Merchant of Venice.  The bottles for their Murano lines are real eye candies. I asked if we could choose a scent and a bottle separately and mix and match, but answer was, unfortunately, no. I sniffed 3 new perfumes from the Flame Collection; Divine Rose, Orchid Oud, and Pearl Bouquet. All of them featured oud, but it wasn’t prominent in any of them (at least when I tried them there) and stayed at a comfortable level.

Did you know that I have a thing for the periodic table? It was partly because of my late husband; he was a chemist and his desk was often covered with chemistry books. That fond memory brought me to the One of Those/Nu_Be stand to try their new Curium. I have no idea what radioactive materials or elements smell like – I guess there wouldn’t be a specific smell – but Curium smelled of cool iris and vetiver. I rather liked it.

Dolce Passione by an Italian brand Pantheon would carve your chocoholic craving without making you worry about your waistline.

I had avoided spraying anything on my skin all day but it had changed when I reached Aedes de Venustas. Cierge de Lune, developed by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, was new to this line and I’ve always admired the botanical illustration of Night-Blooming Cereus in the book “Temple of Flora”; I had to try this on my wrist. It really was worth it. It was musky, powdery, and spicy simultaneously in a sensual twirl.

Dali Haute Parfumeire collection was from Salvador Dali and it was completely new to me. The nose behind this line is Alberto Morillas and each bottle cap (Regard Scintillant de Mille Beautes, Voyage Onirique du Papillon de Vie, Calice de la Seduction Eternelle, Melodie du Cygne de la Main, and Fluidite du Temps Imaginaire) is decorated with a golden symbol inspired by Dali’s jewellery. I liked the melted watch design and Lucas liked the Eye of Time design.

I’m a naturalist at heart, so I was quite drawn to the concept of Raw Spirit. Their perfumes were inspired by the energy, spirit, and connection to nature as they collaborated with some of the oldest communities around the world. I liked Citadelle and Desert Blush.

Quite a few stands were offering different methods to experience their perfumes rather than using traditional blotters. Some of them were using ceramic tablets, perfume soaked objects in containers, bells, and many other creative ways. The stand of Making of had sizable flasks lined up on the counter top. Lucas and I stood in front of them, passing flasks to each other to sniff from them; this movement somehow reminded me of the tea ceremony. We also tried their not-yet-released perfume there.

Lucas and I also visited Corsica Essences and tried their 4 perfumes portraying the power of the four elements: earth, water, air and fire. Another brand we visited toward the end of Day 2 was Bahoma London. I wasn’t aware of this brand before, so it was good to discover something completely new. They had quite a few EDTs and candles. My nose – and everything else – was pretty weary by this time and things got blurry. Later I’ll try 10 samples I got from them and then tell you what this line is like.

I visited a few more brands on Day 2 and I can tell you, by the end of the day, I was as tired as a turtle that raced against a hyper rabbit. I’m sure I missed out something else but, as I said earlier, my note taking skill is yet to be improved. If I remember, I’ll add them later.


That’s more or less the glimpse of what I did at Esxence in the first 2 days. By the end of Day 2, my olfactory system was in overdrive and under high pressure. The concept of Esxence this year was Infinity. Certainly, it felt like infinite.

28 thoughts on “Magpie Goes To Esxence: Part 1

  1. Dear Magpie – a lovely read, thank you! Living vicariously through you in Milan. Gosh, i’m sure it must have been so tiring – so many people and perfumes. I particularly loved the Murano glass bottles and the Nettuno bottles with the coloured ?dichroic glass on the front – just beautiful. I really wish technology could make the internet ‘scratch and sniff’. 🙂 Look forward to the next episode in your Milan trip. xx

    • Hi Patsi! It really was tiring, more than my day job! Hats off to people at each brand stand; they’d been smiling and talking to people continuously for 4 days… I’m pretty sure they were drained. The Murano bottles are so pretty, aren’t they? Most of their perfumes are really easy-to-wear and price isn’t bad. I’d love to visit their shop in Venice one day! xx

  2. Wonderful to read your scented experiences in Milan, see photographs of you and Lucas and Vero and Val. Although you only mention a small portion of what you scented it is quite an amount already so I can only imagine how many scents there were. Lovely to see you with Mark Buxton too. Was the new Aedes de Venustas the one you liked most from all you scented? Really enjoyed reading your impressions and seeing your photographs.

    • Thank you Esperanza! It was just impossible to keep track on things I smelled… I kept some blotters to keep records and smell them again later but there were just so so so many! I still need to sample some of the perfumes to revisit and also for further testing, but so far, the new Aedes was a real winner for me. I didn’t go on too much about the smell of perfumes itself in this post, because at Esxence I was smelling from blotters or from other containers and there was no way I could really experience the fullness and real structures of the perfume in that time frame. I have a check list to re-try some of them. 😉

  3. What a fabulous report Yukiko and oh my gosh, those photos of yours are so good! Your photo-taking skills must be at some higher, almost professional level and I bet the big camera also helped. Many of my photos I took with a phone turned out blurry or they look very “grainy” when uploaded to my computer.

    By the way, I had no idea that letters at Gabriella Chieffo stand were casting a shadow in a woman silhouette shape! I didn’t notice that…

    Anyway, it was a fantastic time to catch up with you. It truly felt like we were old time friends since the very moment we met for the dinner on the evening of your arrival.
    Seems like for both of us Cierge de Lune would be one of the favorite launches from Esxence 2016.

    Looking forward to 2nd part of your report.

    • Thanks Lucas! I thought your photos were really good!! 😀 I’m really into photography and that’s another one of passions. 😉 In that environment, a good camera and lens did help, although it was still a challenge in that dark building! I should have brought my tripod with me.
      Cierge de Lune was a winner. I tested it on a blotter and on my skin, and on the skin it smelled so gorgeous.
      Have you already organised your samples? I haven’t even touched them yet. 😀

      • Thank you. The right photo equipment was definitely helpful in this unfriendly light. Honestly why Esxence has to be all about the spotlights instead of a general ceiling light for everyone… and those spotlights produce a lot of heat too. I tried Cierge de Lune on my skin too and it was very sensual. I might buy a bottle for split at some point.
        BTW, did you see that I bought a bottle of boutique Prada, Purple Rain? It’s gorgeous.
        I don’t really have a way to organizer samples. These from Milan are kept in separate box so it will be easy to find a specific one

  4. It looks like you had a great time. Your nose must have shut down by the end of it all. I’m glad you got to meet a lot of perfume friends there. That’s really the best part of those events I think. The second best part is getting home and sniffing all the samples.

    • You are absolutely right, Poodle. At least, to me, the most enjoyable part was meeting and chatting with people. I got quite a few samples, so there are great deal of sniffing sessions waiting for me. It was a pity, though, some brands didn’t offer any samples.There were a few I wanted to try later on my skin…
      I must say, my nose, or my mind, couldn’t handle all the sniffing. Towards the end, it was like I was wandering around in la-la land. 😀

  5. I thoroughly enjoyed this first instalment of your trip report, which was both comprehensive and highly entertaining, and I look forward to the next instalment. Between your, Val’s and Megan’s posts, which are the ones I have read so far, I really am building up a good picture of what was worth sniffing / what houses were worth meeting / what were the visual highlights of the fair as well as the social ones. I think you did very well to take in as much as you did, and you were so right to have a plan of campaign.

    And how much do I love the image of the magpie speared with fragrance blotters?! 😉 And the Murano bottles, which look like a cross between Prada Candy (mushroom cap) and Les Parfums de Rosine (tassles), but far more elegant.

    • Thank you Vanessa! I took in so much there but some of them dropped out somewhere while I was wandering around Milan and Rome! 😀 Seriously, there are a few I just cannot recall. Bird-brain? or I just over sniffed?
      If I had included the actual total numbers of blotters I kept for the record in the picture, you wouldn’t have been able to see the magpie – more like a weird hedgehog. 😀
      Now you mentioned mushroom (cap), I keep seeing those Murano bottles as psychedelic mushrooms…

  6. Thank you for the fun post and the photos! I feel like I was actually there in Milan with all of you (I wish, maybe one day). I need to try Cierge de Lune. And thank you for mentioning La Dame aux Camelias – Night Cologne. I enjoy wearing perfume to bed and that one sounds lovely! Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your Esxence experience!

    • Thank you Caitlin! You should come, really. You’ll have a great time. 🙂
      La Dame aux Camelias is soft and not in-your-face scent. Anyway, I love the look of the bottle! It would look lovely on the nightstand. 😉

  7. After reading everybody’s posts (and looking on many great pictured), I feel like I saw (but, unfortunately, not “smelled” 😉 ) “the best of” that event. Thank you for your input!
    I’m attracted to Dali bottles and would love to see them in RL.

    • To tell the truth, actual smelling side of Esxence is quite hard. Your nose get so tired (at least mine did) and difficult to concentrate… Quick sniffing there, of course, but testing samples at home at leisure would be my preferred choice.
      Dali bottles were pretty impressive. I’ve got to try the samples again soon. Which bottle would be your (or Rusty’s) choice? Look-wise, I mean? 😉

  8. Fabulous write-up and so many lovely photos. Aren’t Vero, Val and Dr Fox great? Val’s energy is impressive and so is Vero’s for that matter.

    You’re making me even more curious about Purple Reign…

    • Absolutely fabulous trio. I love them. ❤ I've got to boost up my energy. 😉

      Usually all natural perfumes don't speak to me but I got to like quite a few from April Aromatics. I can certainly find a solution to your curiosity for you, Tara. 😉

  9. Dear Magpie, what a wonderful and thorough write up. It’s funny, i think Luca T did a similar overview of the offers, only I much prefer yours, which although personal, still is so much more respectful and allows for different tastes 🙂
    I’m very happy for your, and other, account of events, as I’m not sure I could deal with the real thing, it sounds overwhelming, for which there should be an even more overwhelming word to describe what I mean.
    Did you have a favourite new release?

    • Thank you Asali! After finishing this report, I read Luca T’s blog and had a good laugh. 😀 I have to admit, I actually agree with some of his opinions.
      It really was overwhelming there and I missed quite a few stands; not because I didn’t think it was worth a visit, I just couldn’t think straight and didn’t have energy left in the end. 😀
      The one I liked a lot was Cierge de Lune by Aedes. But, to be honest, I really need to test samples I received first to say which one I liked best. Sniffing at Esxence was so confusing and my bird brain couldn’t take all in. 😀

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